Magary opened his profile with an anecdote of Fieri introducing him to his pet tortoise, whose favorite delicacy is dog feces. “And if you’re looking for a metaphor of how the food-and-wine establishment views Guy Fieri,” wrote Magary, “it’s hard to top a man who feeds dog shit to slow-moving animals and calls it foie gras.”
Anyway, it does get to facepalm-levels of derp a little later on.
In the new Esquire, Jason Diamond made a populist case for Fieri, who champions what he calls “real food for real people.”
When you saw the burger described as “Guy’s Pat LaFrieda custom blend, all-natural Creekstone Farm Black Angus beef patty, LTOP (lettuce, tomato, onion + pickle), SMC (super-melty-cheese) and a slathering of Donkey Sauce on garlic-buttered brioche,” did your mind touch the void for a minute?Did you notice that the menu was an unreliable predictor of what actually came to the table? Were the “bourbon butter crunch chips” missing from your Almond Joy cocktail, too? Was your deep-fried “boulder” of ice cream the size of a standard scoop?What exactly about a small salad with four or five miniature croutons makes Guy’s Famous Big Bite Caesar (a) big (b) famous or (c) Guy’s, in any meaningful sense?
(Read the whole thing. It's a riot)
In this context it would seem that "real people" are philistines that are distracted by shiny objects.
Also, because I can't resist:
And when we hear the words Donkey Sauce, which part of the donkey are we supposed to think about?
But there is a disturbing undertone to this.
There’s only so much abuse even an obnoxious celebrity can take before someone jumps to his or her defense. In some cases, it’s a manifestation of the American urge against snobbery and in favor of underdogs. In other situations (such as when people defend The Eagles), it’s purely opportunistic. When it comes to Fieri, he is also benefiting from the long-practiced tendency of men’s magazines to champion reviled figures for being tougher, cruder, ruder and more ruggedly individual than all those prissy doubters around them.
So it's about the uneducated sticking it to their betters by poisoning themselves with his so-called "food," while the MRA rags rail against the "cucks" who know that Guy is too gauche for polite company.